Self-Guided Tour Around Stepanavan

References: Wikipedia, BGCI

Site # 1
Stepanavan Information Center/Language and Computer Center
Open from 10:00 to 20:00 every day of the week
Information and assistance provided free of charge

Begin exploring the historical sites and green hills of Stepanavan at the Stepanavan Information Center (SIC), also known locally as the Language Center ("lezvi kentron" in Armenian). Centrally located on the central city square (hraparak" in Armenian) the SIC makes the perfect first stop for any visitor arriving at the nearby bus station.

The friendly English-speaking staff can orient you to the area and provide a free, helpful city map of Stepanavan. Additionally, the SIC is happy to help you arrange accommodations at local homestays or hotels, recommend itineraries, order taxis, confirm transportation schedules, and more. On site, SIC director Armine Kalashyan also provides a comfortable bed and breakfast (including hot shower) for up to three people --inquire for current rates.

Site # 2
Stepan Shahumyan Museum
Open from 9:00 to 17:00 Monday through Friday
Admission fee: 100 AMD

Formerly known as Dzhalal-Ogly, Stepanavan's current name is a tribute to Stepan Shahumyan, Bolshevik revolutionary. At the head of Stepanavan's central square, the Stepan Shahumyan musuem was built around the homestead of Shahumyan and his family. The museum not only provides information about the life of Shahumyan, but also offers insight into the history of the community of Stepanavan in the form of a variety of interesting historical artifacts and displays. Inside Shahumyan's house can be found a model of the underground press in Tbilisi where Shahumyan secretly printed communist leaflets.

Shahumyan's Revolutonary Beginnings: Born to a cloth merchant in Tbilisi, at the time part of Imperial Russia, Shahumyan studied in Saint Petersburg and Riga, joining the Russian Social Democratic Party in the latter in 1900. In 1905 he graduated from the Philosophy department of Berlin University. Arrested by the Tsarist government for taking part in student political activities on campus, he was exiled back to his native Transcaucasia. Escaping from his exile, Shahumyan went to Germany, where he met with other exiles from the Russian Empire, notably Julius Martov, Vladimir Lenin and Georgi Plekhanov. Returning to Transcaucasia, Shahumyan became a teacher, and also the leader of local Social Democrats in Tbilisi, as well as a prolific writer of Marxist literature. At the 1903 Congress, he sided with the Bolsheviks. By 1907 he had moved to Baku to head up the significant Bolshevik movement in the city. In 1914, he led the general strike in the city, being sent to prison after it was fiercely crushed by the Imperial Army. Shahumyan escaped just as the February Revolution of 1917 began. Though he had had limited participation in the Revolution itself, Shahumyan was elected President of the Baku Soviet, due to his prior experience with the worker's movement in Baku. He also edited the newspaper Bakinsky Rabochy, which came under pressure from the Provisional Government due to its rather provocative content.

Baku Commune and Central Caspian Dictatorship: Following the October Revolution (which was centered in Saint Petersburg and Moscow, and thus had little effect on Baku), Shaumyan was made Commissar Extraordinary for the Caucasus and Chairman of the Baku Council of People's Commissars. The Government of the Baku Commune consisted of an uneasy alliance of Bolsheviks, Left Socialist-Revolutionaries, Mensheviks and Dashnaks. In March 1918 the leaders of Baku Commune attempted to disarm local Muslim forces, while leaving armed all other political forces in the city, which resulted in armed confrontation between the Bolshevik forces, supported by the Armenian nationalist Dashnak militants, and Muslim militia. After the defeat of Muslim forces, the Dashnaks massacred as many as 3,000 to 12,000 Muslims in Baku in revenge for the Armenian Genocide. Less than six months later, in September 1918 Enver Pasha's Ottoman-led Army of Islam, supported by local Azeri forces, recaptured Baku and subsequently killed an estimated 10,000 to 20,000 ethnic Armenians in retaliation. The Bolsheviks clashed with Dashnaks and Mensheviks over the involvement of British forces, which the latter two welcomed. On July 26, 1918, Bolsheviks were clearly outvoted in the Baku Soviet and were forced out of power. A new government, known as Central Caspian Dictatorship (Diktatura Tsentrokaspiya) was formed, and British forces under General Thompson occupied Baku the same day.

Arrest, Escape, and Death: On July 31, the 26 Baku Commissars attempted the evacuation of Bolshevik armed troops by sailing over the Caspian Sea to Astrakhan, but the ships were captured on August 16 by the military vessels of the Central Caspian Dictatorship. The Commissars were arrested and placed in Baku prison. On August 28, Shahumyan and his comrades were elected in absentia to the Baku Soviet. A group of Bolsheviks headed by Anastas Mikoyan broke into the prison and freed Shahumyan on September 14. He and the other commissars boarded a ship to Krasnovodsk, where upon arrival he was promptly arrested by British troops, and on the night of September 20, executed by a firing squad.

Legacy: Not only Stepanavan bears the name of the revolutionary; the town of Khankendi in the Nagorno-Karabakh region of the Azerbaijan SSR was renamed Stepanakert, too. Additionally, Stepan Shahumyan's son, Levon Shahumyan, was the assistant editor-in-chief of the Soviet Encyclopedia at the beginning of the 1970s.

Site # 3
Stepan Shahumyan Statue
Always open
No admission fee

Flanked by two pillars of orange-colored tufa stone, the statue of Stepan Shahumyan (see above for the history of the Bolshevik revolutionary) looks out over the Dzoraget gorge and greets arriving visitors. In 2007, one of the tufa pillars was partially removed in order to repair part ofthe crumbling stone.

Site # 4
Communist Caves
Always open
No admission fee

Tucked into the edge of the striking Dzoraget gorge are the Communist Caves (“Mayori Dzor” or “Major’s Gorge), which served as a secret meeting place for revolutionary Stepan Shahumyan (1878-1918) who was instrumental in the imposition of Bolshevik rule in Baku, Azerbaijan.

The site is easy to find, thanks to what remains of Soviet-era improvements made to the site. At the edge of the gorge is a small park featuring a sculpture of Shahumyan and a stairway to the right leads down the canyon to the caves. Along the way, several carvings are visible in the rocks.

The first cave is very small and can be reached by scrambling up the bank to better imagine the atmosphere of the secret gatherings of Shahumyan and his comrades. The stairs end at the large caves decorated with a plaque depicting Shahumyan. The spring water flowing from the walls of the caves is aid to be drinkable and would have allowed the revolutionaries to stay out of sight of the authorities for days at a time.

Site # 5
Lori Berd Fortress
Always open
No admission fee

At the dramatic intersection of the Dzoraget and Urut canyons is located the remains of 10th century Lori Berd Fortress. David Anghonin, who ruled during Ani’s Bagratid dynasty from 989 to 1049, built the fortress as the capital of the newly-founded Tashir-Dzoraget kingdom. It became the feudal center of the Kyurikyan family and was later conquered by the Orbelian lords of Georgia in the early 1100s. Under the rule of the Zakaryan family the settlement flourished until the early 1200s, when Mongol Khan Jagat was able to conquer the fortress, allegedly because the defending powers were too drunk to fend off the attack. The site is known to Stepanavan locals as “Ashot Yerkat” or “Ashot the Iron” in memory of the rule of the king known by this nickname.

The site, approximately 4.5 kilometers outside of Stepanavan, can be reached by taxi (1000 AMD one way, additional fee for waiting) or by a pleasant walk on foot. From the center of town, cross the Dzoraget Bridge to the northern bank of the gorge and turn right at the roundabout. Continue east along the road, which parallels the gorge. The homes and buildings on this side of the gorge were built after the 1988 earthquake destroyed many of the homes on the southern bank. The hillocks you’ll notice in the fields are actually the remains of Bronze Age tumulus tombs in which bronze artifacts and the remains of entombed horses have been found. Continue until you reach the intersection of the main road with that entering into the village of Lori Berd on your right. Turn right at this intersection and continue straight through the village. If you look carefully, you will see stones with distinctive markings built into the walls of some of the village homes. These stones, taken from the original fortifications, bear witness to the fact that the village was relocated from within the walls of the fortress itself to its current site in the 1920s or ‘30s. As you approach the fortress, you’ll find the Lori Berd village cemetery on your right.

At the entrance to the fortress is a picnic area and parking lot which lead to the arched entry gate of the massive walls that once protected the northern side of the settlement. Enter through this gate and follow the concrete walkway, installed in Soviet times, to the bathhouse outside of which are two stone bath tubs, complete with drainage holes. According to locals, the larger of the two was once removed by a villager only to be returned when his neighbors reminded him of its historic value! Inside the bathhouse, evidence of a complex plumbing system can be found embedded in the interior walls in the form of a double row of clay pipes --presumably for hot and cold water.

Continue along the concrete pathway to find the church which shows proof of the Muslim occupation in its niche carved into the Mecca-facing southern wall. Christian-era khachkars (cross stones) flank the entrance and local people still burn candles at the alter. The path leads to the edge of the Dzoraget gorge and down to a small kitchen or bath structure which once housed a complex system of pipes. From this vantage point, the security that the canyon walls offered is clear, as the cliffs drop off precipitously to the river below. Double back and follow the pathway as it winds through ruins of homes and other structures to eventually come upon a massive grind-stone, likely used for milling grain or producing oil. Further along, as you return to the entry-gate, you will find a small khachkar to the right.

Exit by the gate and turn right to find the ancient cobbled path switch-backing into the valley to the bridge below. As you descend, you will see a memorial to a man who fell into the gorge while hunting carved into the cliff to your left. The vaulted medieval bridge at the bottom of the gorge crosses the Urut River leading to several carvings of crosses and other designs in the rock face on the other side, as well as to a popular spring to the right. Under the bridge is a clever picnic spot, complete with barbecue area and fire ring for a teakettle.

Climb halfway back up and turn left along the path that leads to the intersection of the gorges where the vestiges of a guard tower can be seen to the right. In the river itself can be found the stone pier of what was once an even larger bridge crossing the Dzoraget River. A carved lion is visible on the face of the pier. According to legend, it is only thanks to the strength of the egg-based mortar used in the construction of the bridge that any part of the structure remains.

From the gorge intersection, it is possible to return to the fortress walls up the winding cobblestone path by which you descended or to return on foot along the river valley—a cool, manageable 4.5 kilometer walk which affords a good view of the Communist Caves (Self-Guided Tour Site # 4). To go on foot, continue following the narrow path, sometimes difficult to find in the tall grass, which leads toward the hydroelectric plant (which you may have seen from above). Pass the hydroelectric plant, being mindful of the barking (but not biting!) guard dogs, and continue along the clear trail on the right-hand side of the gorge. Along the way back to the center, you will see the Communist Caves, identifiable by the stairway leading down the side of the gorge, on your left. You will pass under the modern Dzoraget Bridge and find the small bridge it replaced on your left. Cross the river and follow the switchbacks up the gorge to return to the city center.

Site # 6
Surb Nshan
Always open
No admission fee

This small XXth century chapel, overlooking Stepanavan, is a popular destination for local people to pray, burn candles, and make sacrifices in hopes of improving the fortunes of their families and friends. As charming as the chapel itself may be, the 3 kilometer walk and the view of Stepanavan and its villages are perhaps even more engaging.

From the center of town, follow the signs from the Bus Station to Surb Nshan Street (or turn right onto Surb Nshan Street at the intersection flanked by Lori Hotel and the Stepan Shahumyan Museum). Follow Surb Nshan Street, passing the Second School on your left (built after the earthquake to replace its demolished predecessor with funding from the American Armenian Apostolic Church), and continue through the Azeri neighborhood up the hill. Stop at one of the shops on the way to buy candles (“mome” in Armenian) if you’d like to burn them.

At the first switchback in the road, the head of a trail will be evident to your left. Although it is possible to simply follow the road, this small footpath wends appealingly through the forest and will bring you to the path on your left leading to Surb Nshan, not to be mistaken for the small picnic and barbecue hut and barbecue in the open area at the base of the wooded knoll. Follow the path to the top of the knoll to the tiny chapel, surrounded by wish trees bedecked with the knotted handkerchiefs and plastic bags indicating the hopes of the faithful who come to pray and light candles. Locals walk three times (counterclockwise) around the chapel before entering to burn their narrow yellow candles, but you’ll want to stop mid-circuit to enjoy the panorama of Stepanavan spreading out before you.

Site # 7
Dendropark (Arboretum)
Open from 11:00 to 19:00 during the summer months
No admission fee

Founded in 1931 by Edmon Leonovich, this 35 hectare botanical garden features a broad range of tree species from many regions and a cool, green respite in the heat of summer. 12.5 kilometers away from Stepanavan, just outside the village of Gyulagarak, Dendropark can be reached by taxi (1500 AMD one way, fee for waiting) or a lovely bicycle ride along the shady, tree-lined highway.

Heading toward Vanadzor from Stepanavan, continue along the main road until you reach the Gyulagarak village intersection. Turn left at this intersection, passing on your left the earthquake-ruined remains of the local church. In the village, turn right at the first intersection and follow the road up the hill, past the ruins of 6th century Tormak church on your right. Further up the hill, on the left, you’ll find “Fairytale” (or “Hekyat”) Restaurant where you can dine at tables nestled by the brook in the forest. The road ends at the Dendropark and neighboring sanatorium for lung health. Enter Dendropark through the marked gate and explore the many winding paths and well-labeled specimens. Of particular interest are the greenhouses where the founder’s son, Dr. Leonovich, cultivates evergreen seedlings for sale to re-forestation programs.

The following excerpted article was written for the BGCI journal by Edmon Leonovich's son:

In the Central Transcaucasus of Armenia, on the northern slopes of the Bazum Mountain ridge, 150 km south west of the capital city, Yerevan, the first arboretum in Armenia was established in 1933. The inspiration for the arboretum in the heart of an indigenous forest came from an engineer-forester Edmon Leonovich. While working for the Forestry Commission in this area he began to plant ornamental trees under his own initiative. He introduced new trees into natural forest glades and clearings and left the main forest-forming species, the Siberian pine (Pinus sibirica), as a natural backdrop. The arboretum is 35 hectares in total of which 17.5 hectares consist of natural forest and 15 hectares of ornamental trees.

This collection expanded along the newly-constructed footpaths and vistas which began to reach into the indigenous forest. It is thought that this was the first place in the Transcaucasus, within a sub-alpine region, where a natural forest landscape had been reshaped into a Forest Park. The Stepanavan Dendropark consists of deciduous forest and ornamental plantings with avenues of Lime (Tilia cordata), and wild sourced specimens of Juglans, Malus, Populus and Pyrus. Most introductions were acquired from other botanic gardens via the Yerevan Botanic Garden as part of an international exchange program such as the Botanic Garden in Tbilisi, (Georgia), Kiev (Ukraine), Nikitski, (Crimea, Ukraine), Leningrad and Moscow Central (Soviet Union) as well as the Far East. Specimens were also obtained further afield from Germany, France, Portugal, China and the U.S.A. There are now more than 500 introduced species.

At 1550 m above sea level, the arboretum has a severe climate with 550 mm rainfall per year. Early Spring and winter has an average 6-7°C but goes as low as –28.5°C at times. There is snow from December all the way through to March. The collection is of great scientific interest, giving an opportunity to study developmental changes in the plants introduced to new environmental conditions. For 70 years of its existence more than 2,500 taxa were tested in an effort to find plants that were suitably hardy for the area. To date, only 500 species were found to be suitable for these extreme environmental conditions. Along with maintaining and expanding the living plant collection, the arboretum has also selected plants of high ornamental merit that could be recommended for urban greening.

The variety of plants that have found a home in the arboretum range from Magnolia to larch Larix deciduas, from cypress to Siberian pine, from Cryptomeria to Sequoiadendron. The native species found growing naturally in this region include hornbeam Carpinus caucasica, lime Tilia caucasica, T. cordata, beech Fagus orientalis, elm Ulmus elliptica, U. scabra, U. foliacea, oak Quercus macranthera, Q. iberica, Q. longipes, pine Pinus harmata and pear Pyrus communis (note: Armenia is an important centre of pear diversity with over 20 known species).

The founder remained Director until 1984 when the author, his son, took up the post. The site was designated a Special Protected Area in 1998. The Ministry for Nature Protection has overall management responsibility. Nowadays the arboretum is of interest to the general public, professional scientists and eco-tourists. Here one can study the adaptive characteristics of different plants to the new environmental conditions, conduct training programmes for student internships and study the distinctive flora of the Transcaucasus. In addition to this, taking into consideration the rich biodiversity of Armenia (the flora of Armenia has 3,500 species, while the ornitho-fauna alone counts for 349 birds), the arboretum is a perfect place for public excursions and botanical or zoological tours.

Please note that picnicking and eating are forbidden within the boundaries of Dendropark. Locals exit the gate and take advantage of clearings in the nearby forest to picnic.